We finished the occupational health and safety test this morning and that pretty much wraps up this block. It was all about fire safety, houskeeping on site and what to do if an injury happens at with with you or a work mate.

today we had another written test on calculation which everyone passed. We had to work out how much material we required to fix out a house by looking at the plan, and the cost of these items. This included skirting, architrave, nosings and scotia.Then we went through another booklet on health and safety for carpenters. it went through types of fire extinguishers, hazards and precautions that should be taken when on site.

Today we spent the morning revising notes on claddings and linings until smoko, then had the test before lunch. After lunch we did bookwork revising on the test tommorow on fixing out until the end of the day...

9/12/08

Today we spent the first half of the day on the computer doing assessment questions, working out how much cladding we would need by looking at a few house plans then totalling the cost. There is a methodical way to working this out that isnt hard if you follow the steps. then we had time to just get our blogs up to date.

In the second half of the day, we were down in the workshop while some people finished hanging doors. There wasnt really much i could could do so i just made a cutting -board using strips of jarrah and pine glued together,then ran through the thicknesser until it was smooth.

Weatherboards EXERCISE 3
Claddings and Linings book

Perimetre:
5908
9690
4350
6590
1558
3100
= 31.196 metres

Gross area of walls:
5908 x 2.7= 16.146
9690 x 2.7= 26.163
4350 x 2.7= 11.745
6590 x 2.7= 17.793
1558 x 2.7= 4.206
3100 x 2.7= 8.37
= 84.423 m2

Area of openings:
W1-1500 x 1500= 2.25
W2- 1200 x 1600= 1.92
W3- 1600 x 1800= 2.88
W4- 1600 x 1200= 1.92
W5-1500 x 1500= 2.25
W6- 1750 x 1800= 3.15
D1-900 x 2100= 1.89
D2-900 x 2100= 1.89
= 18.15 m2

Nett area of walls:
84.423
-18.15
= 66.273 m2


Coverage of boards:
66.273 divided by
.205

Metres of board required:
=323.282
+ 7%
=345.912
=346

Cost:
346 x $2.20
= $761.2

ASSIGNMENT QUESTION 2

perimetre:
7030
10110
5150
6760
1880
3550
= 34.28 m

Gross area of walls:
7030 x 2.4= 16.872
10110 x 2.4= 24.26
5150 x 2.4 = 12.36
6760 x 2.4= 16.224
1880 x 2.4= 4.512
3550 x 2.4= 8.04
=82.264m2

Area of openings:
W1- 1100 x 1500= 1.65
W2- 1200 x 600 = .72
W3- 1800 x 600 = 1.08
W4- 600 x 1200= .72
W5- 1500 x 1100= 1.65
W6- 1200 x 1800 = 2.16
D- 900 x 2100 = 1.89
= 9.87 m2

Nett area of walls:
82.26
-9.87
=72.39

Coverage of boards:
2700 x 1200
=3.24 m2

Number of sheets required:
22.34
+ 7.5%
= 24.18
=25

Cost of Boards:
72.39
x 6.45
= $466.91

ASSIGMENT QUESTION 1

Perimetre:
5200
5200
8550
8550
=27.5 metres

Gross area of walls:
5.2 x 2.4= 12.48
5.2 x 2.4=12.48
8.55 x 2.4=20. 52
8.55 x 2.4 = 20.52
= 66m2

Area of openings:
W1-1100 x 1600 = 1.76
W2-1100 x 1600 = 1.76
W3-1200 x 1100 =1.32
W4-900 x 1700 =1.53
D- 900 x 2100 = 1.89
= 8.26 m2

Nett area of walls:
66.00
- 8.26
= 57.74 m2

Coverage of boards:
57.74 divided by
.160
= 360.875

Metres of board required:
360.875
+ 7% waste
= 386.136 metres

Total Cost of boards:
387
x 7.25
= $ 2805.75

Project Construction Plan
Assignment

Name
Scott Doran
Date
08.12.08
Project
name
External Cladding

Construction steps
Tools and Equipment required
1
Tape the sarking down to the frame so that top one overlaps bottom.

Sarking
tape

2
Tape down the flashing on the internal and external corners so water cannot get in from any way.

Flashing
tape

3
Cut packers for the bottom row of boards and screw in so they keep the splay.

Thin packer
Drill with Phillips bit
screws

4
Screw on the bottom boards all the way around making sure that they are hard up to the corner moulds and that they are perfectly straight. Its important that the boards line up with each above coarse. Use a level.

Level
Internal/ external moulds

5
Mark 25mm down from the top of the boards at both end and this will give you your line to fix the next row of boards.

Measuring tape
pencil

6
Continue this procedure until you have covered the entire wall. Check it every now and again with a level and make sure each row of boards are an line.

level

Cladding

Today we did some cladding on the outside of a steel framed building. The first thing we did was line the frame with sarking, a reflective layer of foil and put flashing over the corners. Then we screwed in the internal and the external corners and screwed the bottom board on. To make sure the bottom board is nice and straight we got out the level and adjusted it. We put some packer under this one to keep the splay. Make sure you have a 25mm overlap on each board before nailing and butt the boards hard up against the external and internal corners. because it was a steel frame, we used a drill with a phillips bit to screw the boards down, howerver if it were timber, nails should be galvinised flat-heads for softwood, bullet head for hardwood.

Hanging Doors

Today we hung an interior door and some double-doors.
You start by getting a bit of a bevel on the side that will have the passage set on it so that the inside edge clears the front of the jamb. allow 2 or 3 mm for the coats of paint, then put the door in the jamb. if it fits in already its good but if it doesnt you will need to plane some off until it does. once it fits nicely scribe a line down the side and take enough off so youve got 2 or3 mm gap on the top and sides. the bottom should be taken up depending on what type of floor covering is going under it.e.g tiles.
Next step is marking and checking in the hinges. make sure you have a sharp pencil and cut right on the line or it makes it hard when you hang it.
once thats on you mark out where your passage set will go, then with a 54mm hole-saw bit and a 24mm spade-bit, you drill the door.
Install the passage set and your done.

With the double doors, you follow the same process but you put one side on, then scribe the other side to that. you wanna make sure the gap in the middle is even and that they are in the same line at the top.

SKIRTING

Today we did a bit of skirting on a practice block using single bullnose skirting. We used a drop saw to get the external mitres correct, and done scribes for the internal corners. It wasnt too hard because all the joins were either 45 or 22 and half degrees. The tricky bit was scribing around the double bullnose architrave but it didnt look bad in the end. I wouldnt mind having a go at doing colonial skirting i bet its alot harder.

Then we finished it off by putting some quarter round around the outside which was good coz i learned how to scribe quad properly.

Project Construction Plan
Assignment

Complete this assignment to form part of your portfolio.

In your own words describe the steps involved and tools / equipment required for the project
Name
Scott Doran
Date
3.12.08
Project
name
Window Installation
Construction steps
How it happens
Tools and Equipment required
1
We covered the frame in brown paper which symbolizes lining the walls with sizalation. We had to tape it on in a way so theres no way rain can get in. (just overlapped it the bottom sheet underneath.)

Brown paper
tape
frame

2

We put the window frame in, plumbed it up using some pieces of packer and nailed it in place.

Window frame
packer

level
3

Cladding was the next step. we covered the whole outside of the frame, butting the ends straight into the frame so that the top of the cladding boards are flush with the outside of the frame.

Nails, hammer, flashing
cladding
4

The next step was the nosing. We checked that in so it sat hard up to the sill, leaving 80mm horns on both sides for the architrave to run into. i got the router out and dressed it up a bit.then gave it a light sand.

Saw, nails, ban-saw, nosing

ban saw
5

Then we had to make up the window jambs that allow somewhere for the architrave to be nailed from the inside. We arrissed the edge facing inwards so it would look good if it was painted.

Timber for jambs(needed plaining to width),

nails

6
Once the jambs were secured It was time to cut the double bullnose architrave. I made sure I came in 10mm from the edges than it was just 45degree cuts on the dropsaw which is easy and then nailed on. i gave the mitres a bit of a sand and it was ready to go.

Architrave, drop saw, nails, tape, sand paper

explosive powered tools

Today i learned more about Explosive Powered Tools. first we went through a booklet called explosive powered tools which went through the different tpyes of fasteners, charges, laws for using them in australia and the difference between direct and in-direct acting guns.

We went outside and learned the right way to fire them then we all fired a shot into a piece of steel. Before you fire them you must give everyone a verbal warning"firing" and make sure everyone is at least 6 metres back. Before using them on site you must have a sign like the one shown here, and you must also have a licence to fire a direct-acting gun in every other state except WA.

Installing a window frame

This morning we learned the a way to install a timber window frame and clad all around it. First we covered the frame in brown paper which represents sistalation.We then packed the frame out until it was sitting flush with the cladding. the next thing we did was put the flashings on, making sure that it overlapped in a way so no water can get in the walls. Once we had cladded around it,we cut the nosing to fit and then finished it off by cutting architrave to go around the outside.Before that we went through a work book called install and replace windows which also had good information on common brick types and hinge types.